DO you steer clear of the fish counter at the supermarket because you fear cooking a fish dish from scratch will be too difficult and messy?

You're missing a trick. There's a versatile and easy ingredient hiding under all that batter at the takeaway - and one that's healthy too.

Miss out on tasty fish suppers and, says chef Atul Kochhar, you are depriving yourself of something wonderful.

Kochhar, the first Indian chef to be awarded a Michelin star, who shot to fame in Britain as a finalist on the BBC's The Great British Menu, has taken a whole new approach to fish by marrying it with Indian spices and says it's been a revelation.

"I've discovered the marriage of British fish and Indian flavours is one of the best there is," he says.

The chef is hoping his discovery will spark a revolution in the way we cook and eat fish because, as he points out, `fish cookery is so under-exploited' in Britain.

"This country is surrounded by ocean, yet we shy away from the wealth of seafood available to us despite the fact it's some of the best in the world and sometimes even free," he says.

"Also, although we'd all benefit health-wise from including fish in our diet more often, many people lack confidence when it comes to buying and cooking fish."

Similarly, he says his homeland of India, despite its long coastline, generally doesn't make the most of seafood.

"Fish tends to be cooked in curries, which mask the qualities that make it special - its colours, textures and aromas.

"But fish is a wonderfully versatile ingredient and, as long as you take care not to overwhelm it, makes a perfect canvas for spices and herbs."

Some of his favourite dishes include Kentish oysters, scallops from the Isle of Man and Scottish herrings.

Signature

In his new book, Fish Indian Style, he's incorporated some signature British ingredients, along with many others, and the elements of the cookery he grew up with in East India.

The result is a range of fish dishes with unique flavours such as Kentish oyster fritters with cumin and chilli-apple jelly, crisp fried whiting with Jerusalem artichokes and sea bass in coconut milk and ginger sauce.

One of his quirky favourites is Mumbai fish pizza (pictured). He jokes: "This recipe is a cheeky dig at the stylish folk of Mumbai (Bombay) who regard themselves as trend setters. Italian food is all the rage there now."

And Kochhar, who runs London's renowned Benares restaurant, has also given a fresh spin to the classic treat, battered fish and mushy peas. His version is deep fried John Dory with garlic and cumin peas.

He says: "My interpretation of Britain's national dish is easy to make at home and has proved immensely popular with the customers at Benares."

So pluck up your courage, drop your anchor at the fish counter and pop some essential spices of India into the shopping basket before you get to the checkout.

COOKING TIPS FROM KOCHHAR

He urges cooks to avoid the highly-popular but endangered species, such as cod, tuna and eel and instead recommends other equally tasty alternatives such as pollack, signal crayfish and grey mullet. The Marine Conservation Society offers advice on sourcing sustainable fish at: www.fishonline.org

Kochhar advises using spices in the same way as salt and pepper in cooking. "Always taste as you go along and adjust the seasoning as necessary."

Most of the spices and ingredients Kochhar uses are available from Asian shops or large supermarkets or by post from companies such as Spices of India. Go to spicesofindia.co.uk

Fish Indian Style, by Atul Kochhar, photography by David Loftus, is published by Absolute Press. Click here to buy this book from Amazon.